Initial Hammerhead One review

Warning! This review is long. You've been warned.

I finally received my Hammerhead One a week or two ago. This thing's been a long time in the making, starting as a kickstarter (or one of those crowdfunding sites, I'm too lazy to go back and look it up) that I was really excited about. If you're not familiar with a Hammerhead One, it's a bicycle navigation device - here's the manufacturer's own video:

Hammerhead One demo video

It's a really, really cool concept, so I was more than happy to back them.

The process took a while. I knew this from the start, but it certainly seemed to go on quite some time. They were good with updates to the process, but I quickly learned that "we think we'll be shipping it by {insert some point in the near future}" statements were not terribly likely. Eventually, I decided "okay, it'll happen at some point, and it'll be a pleasant surprise when it does". Finally, about a month ago I received an update message that said they'd be shipping out soon. It showed up on my porch one day, and I was pretty stoked!

Initial thoughts

• It's a clean design
  The final shipped design is awfully close to the initial designs, and is really clean. Non-cycling friends can (and have) made jokes about the new sex toy, but aside from that it's a pretty cool looking gadget.
  
  
• No documentation at all in the box?
  The box looks pretty good, but one thing I noticed right away is there's no documentation either in the box or on it. If you're going to ship a device with no form of instructions included, you'd better make damn sure it's super intuitive to use and has no gotchas. Turns out, this isn't the case.
  
  There was, however, a nice thank-you card which lists the names of all the initial supporters. Yep, I'm on there, along with two friends that I know supported it. Cool.
  
  The only instructions that I received with the unit came in the shipping email:
  
  "Once you have unboxed your Hammerhead we suggest you connect it to the app and update the Firmware immediately: This video will show you how to update the firmware, and here is an initial turn instruction guide."
  
  As this was the shipping email, I initially missed it, and as we'll see, that turns out to be not quite enough.
  
  
• Reusing the Garmin mount is a clever approach
  The mount on the Hammerhead uses a standard Garmin bike computer half-turn mount. It's simple, it works, and opens up the ability to use a bunch of other mounts.
  
  
• Sparse documentation online
  After some initial setup issues, I hit the "Help" link in the app which leads to their online FAQ. They've bolstered it quite a bit since I got mine, but at the time, it was really sparse. The only other thing I managed to find were the videos which we've already discussed.
  
  
• Setup video says iOS, no separate video for Android
  Although the app looks almost exactly the same between the two platforms, the setup video that they linked to in the shipping email clearly says "iOS" in the title. So I look for the Android version, and I don't find it. Good thing I know Android and iOS well enough to be able to translate what they're trying to do in the video. It's not hugely different (beyond it actually working in iOS - but more on that in the next section) but it's still different.
  
  
• No GPX import?
  Playing around with the app, it looks like a fairly basic navigation app. I find I get the best results planning rides using a computer and web-based tools instead of an app on the phone - and then being able to import that route into an app on the phone when it comes time to follow it. This doesn't appear to be an option, and it doesn't even look like I can use another tool and then import that path. I understand that this could lead to issues - if I give it a route that's not on its map, how will it know where to turn, and if I go off-route, how will it figure out how to re-route me? It's probably not a trivial solution, but I sure hope that they figure it out.
  
  

Android problems

I have two phones - my own Android (first gen Moto X) and an iPhone 6 from work. This turns out to be a good thing, because about two weeks into having my Hammerhead, I've still yet to get it working with the Android phone. I've discovered a bunch of fun things, and have been seriously frustrated up to this point, but so far their customer support has been pretty good. Here's a rundown of the problems I've discovered and not yet surmounted:

• You don't pair it with your phone like a normal Bluetooth device.
  If there were instructions, I might have known that before I started using it. Having missed the one paragraph of instructions in the shipping email, I figured "Okay, it's bluetooth. Let's get it paired up and see what this thing can do." So, I went to the phone's Bluetooth setup menu, just like I've done for all the other Bluetooth things that I have, and tried to set it up. This failed with an "invalid PIN" error. I checked the instructions I received for what to do in that situation and oh wait - I didn't get any. Hah.
  
  Turns out you have to do the pairing in the app. Why? Fucked if I know. I've got theories.
  
  
• If you manage to lock it up, the only way to reset it is leave it alone and let the battery run out.
  In the process of trying to figure out how to get it to talk to the phone (remembering that I missed the one paragraph of instructions with links to videos for a mobile OS that I was not using) I managed to lock it up. The device has one button which is ringed by light when it's on, and at some point this went solid greenish-blue and the device stopped responding at all. The phone wasn't able to see it anymore - it was locked up. With no troubleshooting instructions and nothing of use I could find on the FAQ (which was much less populated than it is now and had almost nothing about connectivity issues) I was left to my own troubleshooting steps. I'm a computer guy, I've got decent troubleshooting skills. The first thing I tried was to press and hold the button, as many electronic devices honor that as a "turn off regardless" indicator. Holding the button down for well over a minute made me think that wasn't the case. Tapping the button did nothing. There are screws on the back of the unit and I considered opening it up - they're just T-6 Torx, which I have - but at this point the thing is brand new and I decided I didn't really want to do that.
  
  Ultimately, I left it alone and let the battery die off. Once that happened, I could start trying to use it again, until I locked it up again and had to let it die all over again. Speaking with support, I was told that I could reset the unit by "Plug in the USB cable and hold the main button for 6 seconds. Then remove the USB cable and hold the main button for 3 seconds." This procedure kinda sucks since I need to have a USB cable on hand and leaves a bunch of questions unanswered:
• Do I keep holding the button when I unplug the USB or do I let it go?
• Does the USB cable have to be plugged into the wall, or would a cable by itself do the trick?
• Most importantly, why didn't it work with any variation of the procedure that I could think of?
  
  
• Removing the charging port cover isn't intuitive or documented
  The charging port cover is easy to find, at the bottom of the unit on the back. Getting it off is another matter. It looks like it should just slide off away from the bottom of the unit, but trying to do that by hand without forcing it wasn't resulting in anything. There's a tab on the back of the device that looked like maybe it needed to be depressed in order to let the cover slide off, and I tried that. Turns out that's exactly what you don't want to do as it keeps the cover in place and pressing on it increases the lock, not decreases it. I see the FAQ entry has been updated to state this now - but that wasn't there the other day when I tried it. Also, the FAQ entry had one single photo with an arrow on it pointing to the charging port. The problem here is that the photo looks like a quick shot with a cell phone camera in crappy lighting so the arrow points to an area on the phone you could have found on your own (I did) and the relevant point on the unit is a featureless blob of black, so you really don't get any information from the photo which isn't already obvious. See what I mean?

  

  Crappy white balance and exposure make this photo useless.

  
  
  With a T-shirt providing a dark background so it doesn't throw off the auto exposure and sunlight from the window by my desk, I managed to get this photo:

  

  Less than a minute of work and a much more useful photo.

  I didn't include the cover because I took that off and just left it off.
  
  I eventually managed to get the cover off by sticking the point of a screwdriver in the space around the tab that holds it in place and pushing it away in the direction I guessed was right.
  
  
• The charging light is hard to see
  When I first let it die off because it was locked up, and then plugged it in, no lights came on. Considering the thing is covered with LEDs, I was kinda surprised about that. No form of indication if it's charging or done? Fail.
  
  Well, turns out I was wrong. There's a small green LED on the side of the unit which shows when it's plugged in. I had initially missed it. Let's see why:

  

  The charging light is on. Can you see it?

  

  See it now? The viewing angle is quite shallow.

  I also don't think the light changes based on the charge level. It's just an indication that it's plugged in. So, is it fully charged? Well, the app can tell you that, but a simple flashing during charge, solid when fully charged would remove the need for the app.
  
  
• The firmware process isn't well documented or intuitive
  The only instructions for upgrading the firmware are on the iOS video. It just shows the procedure happening once and leaves out pretty important details. I managed to assemble the proper procedure from the video, the light sequence demo video, and other information I managed to find online.
  
  
• Lack of information on firmware versions
  Since the only place you can update the firmware is through the phone app, you never have to manually download it, and that's nice. However, there's no way to see what the current released version of firmware might be - or changelogs, or anything like that. As a computer guy, I'm used to things like this. For the general user, not a huge problem, but since they recently uploaded a video mentioning firmware 1.5, and I'm at 1.3.x, I have to assume that it hasn't been released because "Update firmware" is greyed out in the app. Or maybe something's broken. I can't tell.
  
  
• The Android app won't actually talk to my phone
  After finally managing to update the firmware on my device, I tried to use it with my Android phone. I can create route instructions, but when I try to ride it, I get the following error:

  

  "wait for some time." ?? Dafug?

  Despite "waiting for some time" - it never sees my Hammerhead.
  
  
• The Android app crashes repeatedly
  Related to the above point, when I click "Skip" on the "Connecting to Hammerhead" prompt above, the app closes and I get this:

  

  Yay, crashed!

  
  
  
• All of this works on my iPhone
  I guess we know where they spent all their development effort and QA testing.

Test drive on my commute to work

So yes, I know that my first test with this thing should be on a bike, not driving in a car, but time constraints combined with curiosity/impatience led my first test to be my driving commute to work. It's actually not awful because I know the roads between home and work pretty well so should be able to follow pretty close to the route the app suggests, and it'd be interesting to see how it handles things. The key, however, with anything that gives you directions is you should get familiar with it on roads and paths that you _know_ so you learn its quirks - you don't want to find these out blindly following it where you have no idea where you _should_ be going.

For this test,  I had the hammerhead propped up in front of my speedometer so I could see the lights out of my peripheral vision, and the iPhone was in my phone holder so I could see the route it had planned out for me.

• It really prefers bike paths to streets
  This isn't too surprising, since it's designed first and foremost for giving directions to road bikers. Still, the roads around my house are quite nice and cyclist friendly. Here's the way it suggested I start my ride:

  

  It's pretty, but a circuitous 2.8 miles.

  
  

  

  Perfectly valid route that's a full mile shorter.

  While the route it suggested is pretty and almost completely avoids any roads, the way I usually go is perfectly fine for cyclists and takes 1 mile off the ride before I've even gotten to Route 202.
  
  
• It prefers a shared-use path to a marked bike lane.
  Similar to above, Route 202 has a shared-use path that runs along side the road, separated by a fence. It's a nice way to go - but 202 also has marked bike paths on the road. If you chose to do that (admittedly, few cyclists do, but I have) it will confuse the app, frequently telling you to turn around and head back when the shared use path goes away from the road too far.

  

  Route 202 has bike lanes and a separate shared-use path. gmaps

  
  If you don't already know where you're going, the indication for a U-turn while you're heading the right way on a marked bike lane could be confusing as hell.
  
  If you do already know where you're going, then you don't really need a blinky thing on your handlebars telling you where to go, do you?
  
  
• The routing was pretty good for a cyclist in the area
  Ignoring wanting to use bike paths over roads and insisting on a U-turn when you don't follow it exactly, the routing was pretty good. There are some tricky areas for bikes on my commute, and it managed to avoid those pretty effectively.
  
  
• It tried to direct me over a bridge that has been closed for a month or two
  I use the Waze app for driving. It's a community-supported app that allows you to report problems on the road, including road closures. One of the routes I take to work has a bridge which is currently closed for repairs. I was able to tag the bridge as unavailable in the Waze app so that other folks knew to not go that way.
  
  Unfortunately, Hammerhead's map doesn't know this, and tried to direct me over the same bridge. When I took my usual detour around the closed bridge, the Hammerhead was diligently instructing me to make a U-turn for well over a half mile before it finally figured out the way I was actually going.
  
  
• The amount of pre-turn warning that you get seems to be based on distance from the turn
  Okay, this is kinda a bullshit observation since I was in a car, going far faster than the app was designed for, but the turn notifications I was getting happened *very* close to the turn. At bike speed, that'd be just fine, but adjusting the amount of warning based on the speed doesn't seem like it'd be terribly difficult. More of an observation than a real issue.
  
  
• Several indicated turns that weren't actual turns.
  Driving down a section of road where I had well over a mile to the next turn, it kept indicating left turns. Sometimes those turns seemed to be nothing more than a bend in the road. Sometimes it indicated a left turn on a straight stretch of road where there was nothing beyond a driveway on the left. If I didn't know where I was going and didn't have the map up, that would have been confusing as HELL. Problem is, not knowing where I'm going and not having a map up is exactly the targeted use case for this device.
  
  I should note that these were indicated left turns - not the slight turns shown in the video. I did see one slight right on my route, which was accurate.
  
  

Conclusion - so far

I still think the Hammerhead is a great idea and a slick design. It shows real promise. However, I can't help but wonder what the hell they did with 20 months of development time. I can't imagine they offered these to too many folks for beta testing... or is that us, the initial backers? I can't imagine how they managed to go 20 months of development without writing any type of useful doc, or taking more than a single crappy cell phone camera when a simple lightbox setup with a good SLR would have been so much more effective. It's just been a really frustrating first experience with the device.

Given some time, I think that it still shows huge promise, and I'm not giving up on it yet, but I certainly don't think it's ready for the big time, and I sure won't be using it alone to figure out how to get somewhere. It needs a bunch of work before I'll be ready to trust it that far.

My Review of Giottos MH1004 Mini Ball Head with Single Knob for Ball and Pan

Adorama

Giottos MH1004 Mini Ball Head with Single Knob for Ball and Pan

Giottos MH1004 Mini Ball Head with Single Knob for Ball and Pan

Excellent little ball head

cmh Doylestown, PA 8/10/2009

5 5

Pros: Good Stability, Large Range of Motion, Attaches Firmly, Strong Clamp

Best Uses: Photography, Reducing Noise (ISO Reduction), Long Exposures

Describe Yourself: Photo Enthusiast

I picked this ball head up to go with the Flashpoint handlebar mount, thinking that it was required. Turns out it wasn't necessary, but I'm still happier with this ball head than with the handlebar mount, and will probably get more use from it. It's quite small, and fits nicely on top of my compact gorillapod, but even when mounted on top of my tripod, it can handle my Nikon D80 SLR with a fairly heavy 18-200mm VR lens with no problem. The knob quicky and easily unlocks it, allowing you to reposition any which way you want, and then lock it down again quickly. This ball head is an absolute must-have for use with a Gorillapod, as it gives you flexibility on the final aiming that can be quite difficult with the Gorillapod alone.

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My Review of Flashpoint High-Grade Alloy Bicycle Bracket for 31.8mm Handlebars, Allows the Mounting of Ballheads

Adorama

Flashpoint High-Grade Alloy Bicycle Bracket for 31.8mm Handlebars, Allows the Mounting of Ballheads

Flashpoint High-Grade Alloy Bicycle Bracket for 31.8mm Handlebars, Allows the Mounting of Ballheads

Nice design but transfers too much shake

cmh Doylestown, PA 8/10/2009

3 5

Pros: Lightweight

Best Uses: Casual riding

Describe Yourself: Photo Enthusiast

First and foremost, Adorama says you need a ball head to use this. You do NOT need a ball head. It can help and make the mount more flexible, but it is NOT necessary, as the mount comes with both a 1/4" and 3/8" thread. If you're just going to mount the camera pointed forward, you can save the money and skip the ball head.

I came across this camera mount on Adorama, and looked at it for a while before deciding to buy it. My plan was to use it to mount my Canon SD800 (small point-and-shoot) and shoot video. When I got it, I was impressed with the build quality, it does not look cheap at all, and the hardware is quality. Installation is very easy.

The problem, however, is the same with a ball head or without. At moderate speeds, the camera works very well, with only moderate shake, as can be seen in the following short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wHd3yhPFJU

However, on the mountain bike (with front suspension) or on the road bike (carbon fiber frame and fork) once you start reaching any type of "interesting" speeds, the vibration is such that my camera winds up shutting itself off, and even if the camera was recording at the time, the file that was recording is lost.

For example, I rode a course at casual speeds, and got 10 minutes of good quality footage. During a race on the same trails, however, I got nothing, because the higher speed and sharper bumps caused the camera to shut off. On the road bike, I could cruise around town, but when I headed for a high-speed downhill, it would shut off soon after I started.

It is possible that other cameras would have better results, if they are more resistant to vibration. Understand - I'm not talking about the shake reduction feature in the camera (the SD800 has this) - I'm talking about being bolted to your handlebars and shaken pretty hard.

For cruising around the beach, a casual bike trip, or really smooth roads, it'll probably work pretty well, but for anything more interesting, you'll have to look elsewhere.

For my use, though, I'm saving up for a proper sports camera.

Mounted on mountain bike.

: Picture of Product

Short test video using the mount

: Mountain, Handlebar, Using Product, Road, Doylestown, MTB, Flashpoint, Mount, Bike

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Bike Tools Etc

In my previous post, I mentioned Larry from Bike Tools Etc. I've been a customer of BTE for a while, ever since the Third Hand cut way back on their bike tool offerings. BTE has an awesome selection of tools from inexpensive to high-end shop-only grade, and their prices are quite reasonable.

However, that's not what made me a real fan of the outfit. I enjoy building bike wheels, and I like using good tools. So, when I saw that DT, a maker of arguably the best spokes out there (and definitely the best aluminum spoke nipples) had a spoke wrench, I really wanted to give it a try. At $48, compared to the classic $8 Park wrench, it was a steep premium to pay, but it looked like a good, strong design that would serve me well... so I finally decided to go ahead and order one. Initially, the spoke wrench worked very, very well, especially on softer aluminum spoke nipples, where higher torques needed for high spoke tension can result in rounded (and thus, useless) nipple flats. The four-sided design held on very securely, and the nice, heavy, chrome design felt good in the hand.

However, after about a year of use, I noticed that the DT was starting to fit a little loose on the nipples, and came very close to rounding the edges of a couple. Since these were all brand new DT aluminum nipples, and they still fit tightly with the Park spoke wrenches, I couldn't help but come to the conclusion that the DT either wore, or stretched. Looking at the design, neither made sense, but I couldn't argue that the wrench just didn't fit well at all. So, I contacted DT directly, figuring that any high quality shop-grade tool would have a lifetime warranty, just like you would find with S-K or Snap-On, or even Craftsman. However, the reply from DT was basically a brush off, telling me that I was out of luck.

So, hoping to get better results, I got in touch with Larry at BTE to see if he had any contacts I could speak to. It had been a year since I bought it, so I didn't even bother asking him to return it. However, he offered to take it back, even though I looked and couldn't find my receipt. Not only take it back -- give me a refund, not just store credit. That type of customer service will win me as a dedicated customer. Of course, to say thanks, I placed an order for double the price of the spoke wrench. Now, if there's anything I need, I try to remember to check and see if BTE has it first, and if the price is anywhere near where I can get it from elsewhere, I'll just go with BTE.

Moral(s) of the story:

1. Get bike tools (and some components) from Bike Tools Etc.
2. There's still no spoke wrench as awesome as the Park, except for the newer four-sided Park.
   

Gary Fisher HiFi 29er test ride

Out in Utah, I came to the conclusion that no matter how much Grace might like the hardtail, it's just not for me. I got sick of being bounced around, and didn't really feel like it was all that much more efficient than my Superlight. However, I have always thought the Superlight was a bit too flexible for me, (and my weight) so after seeing how well Aaron and Mark did on their Marin Mount Vision trail bikes, I decided it might be time for me to get a trailbike.

Grace was checking the MASS schedule, and saw that there was a race at Fair Hills this past weekend. She's been wanting to get back into the racing, so we decided to go. Then, I found out that Trek and Gary Fisher would be bringing demo bikes... score! One of the bikes I've looked at recently is the Fisher HiFi 29er -- a full suspension bike with 100mm of travel front and rear *and* big 29" wheels. Although I wasn't that impressed with the big wheels on my Karate Monkey, I still see the merits, and DZ is a huge proponent and keeps talking about them.

So, I left my bike at home (still packed up in the box) and brought my helmet, shoes, and gloves. When I got there, all they had was a large HiFi 29er, not the XL, but I figured I was more interested in the ride, and a large should be close enough. Sign the waiver, hand over my driver's license, they set up the suspension for my weight, popped on some eggbeater pedals, and I was good to go.

I'm not very familiar with Fair Hills, so I set out to find some singletrack. If I could stay off the race course, that would be great, and if I could find some bumpy, rocky sections, that would be golden. Well, I followed some fire road which lead me to the race course, but just off of that, I found some singletrack which wasn't part of the course. It was nice and swoopy, with climbs and descents, and good turns with which to get a feel for the handling of the bike. Unfortunately, it was pretty darn smooth -- I'm pretty sure I could have cleared it on my road bike.

One of the first things I noticed was that the bike handled well. It turned around some of the tighter corners pretty darn well, which was very impressive for a big bike with big wheels. In fact, it handled the turns about as well as my Scott Scale hardtail, which I thought was pretty good. Then again, I was still getting used to it, so I didn't really ask it for THAT much, but I did notice that it steered like a very light bike. I also couldn't help but notice that on the hardpack and road sections I rode it, the suspension felt very efficient... not too much suspension movement, very little sensation of wasted energy. Even out of the saddle on short steep climbs, the suspension didn't seem to be a hindrance at all. It was certainly a bunch smoother than my hardtail, that's for sure.

And now... for the bad. First and foremost, this was definitely a demo bike. Standing for a short hill in the middle of the cassette, the chain started jumping ... either the chain or the cassette was significantly worn, and not worn together. I was able to ride skip free in either end of the cassette; either low gears or high. That wasn't too bad until the front dérailleur stopped working altogether. I had dropped to the granny on a longer climb to test the seated climbing (which was good) and thankfully got back to the middle ring, but later when I tried to use the big ring... nothing. It wouldn't drop down to the granny, either. So I was left with about four or five usable gears, with a BIG gap between them.

None of that is really a fault of the bike design though, just a function of it being a demo bike. As for the bike design, when I tried to lift the front end on a climb with a step-up over a large root, I discovered that the 29" wheels are significantly heavier I'm used to. I barely got the wheel off the ground, and it felt like there was a cinder block attached to the bars. Surprising for a bike which handled like it was so light. The good part is the big wheels handled the roots with no problem at all.

All in all, I really enjoyed the bike. It rode and handled well, and impressed with its efficient suspension. I might want to do something about the heavy front end with some lighter wheels, but I could definitely see this being a bike that I could live with.